Paris 17e arrondissement · Village in the city

Batignolles & Monceau

Split between formal Monceau in the south and the village-feel Batignolles in the north — a covered market, an organic open-air one, a big new park over the old rail yards, and a local restaurant scene.

Where to eat in the 17e (10)

• ★ Bodrum€ · Turkish / kebabThe meat is veal breast, boned and cut and marinated in a spice blend the owners trace to a grandfather's kitchen in Turkey — no turkey filler, which is the usual giveaway. People will tell you it's the best kebab in Paris; it is at least very good.
• Les Caves Populaires€ · Wine barA blue-collar wine bar where a glass of the house red costs less than a métro ticket and a mixed charcuterie-and-cheese board runs €11. You can take an old wooden chair and play chess all afternoon under the big front window.
• Menelik€ · EthiopianA long-running Ethiopian room in the back streets above the Batignolles, where the beyaynetu — an assortment of stews and pulses spread over sour injera — is meant to be torn into by hand, no cutlery. The €26 formula throws in an aperitif and a half-bottle of wine.
• Coretta€€ · Modern French bistroBeatriz Gonzalez (ex-Senderens) cooks precise, unfussy modern French food in a room looking onto the Martin Luther King park. Worth catching at lunch before the Michelin inspectors finish the job and the prices follow.
• La Table des Ternes€€ · Classic bistroA small, unreconstructed bistro near Porte Maillot doing the old repertoire properly: scallops, andouillette, a cheese board worth the detour and a cellar of decent bottles next door. The weekday set lunch is the sort of arithmetic the 17th rarely offers any more.
• Montijo€€ · Spanish bodegaA bodega on the Batignolles edge with a stained-glass window full of ready tapas and a list of southern-grape natural wines from Spain, Italy and Greece. The pan con tomate and a creamy tortilla under mayo do most of the talking.
• Poussin€€ · Wine bar / cave à mangerJudith Cercós, a sommelière, and Ludovic Dubois run this small cave à manger on French-Iberian lines, the plates fine and the list leaning hard south. The bottles outnumber the seats, which tells you what the place is really about.
• Salicorne€€ · Market bistroCarol Pender cooked at Mokonuts before taking this narrow Batignolles room, where lunch is a handful of dishes weighted toward vegetables and shellfish and rewritten daily. The kitchen does more with a beetroot than most do with a rib of beef.
• Schnock€€ · BistronomiqueÉmile Dayan works a tight market menu off a stone-walled room near the Ternes: a mushroom fricassée under a confit egg yolk, trout gravlax cut with Iranian black lemon and beet. The wine counter is the kind you can eat at alone without feeling stranded.
• Vinello€€ · Italian trattoria & wineRoberto Cubeta opened this trattoria-cum-cellar late in 2024 in the old Bigarrade premises, white tablecloths under raw stone. Vitello tonnato to start, tagliatelle with wild-boar ragù to follow, and a wine wall that runs from cheap-and-honest to ruinous.

Where to stay in the 17e (4)

• Grand Hôtel Chicago€€ · Boutique hotelA four-star on rue de Rome behind Gare Saint-Lazare, on the Batignolles edge — stylish rooms, a buffet breakfast, métro at the door. Soundproofing is the known weakness, so the courtyard side is the room to request.
• Hôtel Eldorado€€ · Bohemian boutique hotelTwenty-odd rooms strung along a courtyard garden in Batignolles, decorated by an owner with a magpie eye — patterned wallpapers, Persian textiles, Art Deco fittings, none of it matching on purpose. The garden restaurant and wine bar are the social centre.
• Joli Môme Batignolles€€ · Boutique hotelOpened in late 2025 on rue des Batignolles and run as a household rather than a hotel: a communal breakfast table of local produce, a free homemade afternoon tea and an evening wine-and-cheese apéritif thrown in.
• Rendez-Vous Batignolles€€ · Boutique hotelForty-seven rooms across two buildings on a quiet street near Place de Clichy, designed for the residential, market-driven end of Batignolles rather than the tourist circuit. Contemporary rooms, serious beds, an ILO Collection address.